I feel sorry for anyone who has never stuffed their gullet with fry bread. Fry bread is magical. Magical! We had this fry bread at the Sky City Cultural Center Yaaka cafe as a snack before touring the pueblo. After, we had lunch (Pueblo tacos) in the same cafe, and the young woman working the counter came out to our table to chat. She looked too young to be talking about her two-year-old baby, but there it is. She told us the baby's father had bought the baby a pony which the baby promptly--and with a two-year-old's logic--named Woogie. No one could persuade the baby to explain the name apparently.
This doesn't look like much, but it was some really good pie from Pie-O-Neer in Pie Town.
Pie Town is surreal. The whole place is really just this one pie shop. (It used to be two, but one I guess drove the other one out of business.) The first time we went to Pie Town for Pie was over a decade ago when Dave took me, for my birthday, to Walter De Maria's Lightning Fields near Quemado. Either on the way there or on the way back, we stopped in Pie Town, which is as close as you can get to being in the middle of nowhere. It was afternoon and we walked into this near-empty cafe that had about fifteen different kinds of pie on the menu--some of them only minutes out of the oven. Two old ladies were running the place, and I just imagined them sitting around dreaming up kinds of pies and running back to the kitchen to bake them.
The pie from Pie-O-Neer reminded me of this apple dumpling from the Dutch Eating Place in Philadelphia. This is a breakfast thing apparently, and it is very, very good in that painful tooth-dissolvingly sweet way. We had one every morning we were in Philadelphia. I looked up the recipe when we got home, thinking I would try my hand at them. Unfortunately they are filled with everything bad for you, including sugar (of course), white flour, and margarine.
This was my lunch in NYC at the same Chelsea diner where we happened to be seated near a very bad Elvis impersonator (he looked like some redneck's elderly delinquent uncle with dyed hair and too large sideburns) with his posse of elderly women in double-knit pantsuits.
The food was good though.
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